The watch industry can be daunting for the average newcomer. As you venture deeper into the world of high-end horology, you will be faced with a plethora of technical terms and phrases which you probably wouldn’t use in your day-to-day life!
However, learning the language of horology can be an extremely interesting (and profitable) pastime. When you are able to identify the various functions and pieces of a high performing watch, you can begin to understand its value and history. This makes the world of horology infinitely more interesting and rewarding. We have put together a basic guide to some of the most common technical words in the industry, so you can get the most out of your watch obsession.
Automatic watch
In short, an automatic watch (or ‘self-winding’ watch) is simply a watch which doesn’t require a battery. Instead, the watch is powered by the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist.
Once it the rotor has been activated, the watch will keep going for approximately 2 days by itself. Automatic watches will sometimes come with a crown, allowing it to be wound manually if the wearer is not active enough to keep the rotor moving.
The first automatic watch was produced by Harwood in 1929.
Bezel/Rotating Bezel
The bezel is simply the circular surround of a watch. Its function is to hold the watch’s face (or ‘crystal’) in place, while also providing a decorative element. Some high-end watches will feature a bezel which is studded with precious stones, or coated in platinum or gold.
A rotating bezel can be wound clockwise or anticlockwise, acting as an in-built stopwatch for the user. Rotating bezels are usually studded with time stamps (e.g: ‘15’; ‘30’; ‘45’; ‘60’) which can be set alongside the main watch face to measure elapsed time. They can also serve a decorative purpose.
Chronograph
A chronograph watch features a tiny stopwatch within the main display. The stopwatch is made up of a second hand which is completely independent from the timings on the main watch. It can be started, stopped and reset to zero by pressing down on the stem.
Traditionally, chronograph watches were used for timing horse races and other sporting events. Today, chronographs are popular for their iconic design and accuracy, while the stopwatch can be used for anything from timing football games, to checking the speedometer in cars and even cooking a perfect steak.
Crown
This is simply another name for the dial at the side of your watch. It is used to set and change the time and date of your watch. On very old watches, the crown was also used to wind up the mechanism.
Diving Watch
Any watch which is water resistant to at least 200m can be called a diving watch. These watches will feature thicker glass which can handle the extra force of pressure caused by being underwater. They are generally believed to be more durable and multi-functioning, and beloved by fans of water sports who don’t want to take any chances with their timepiece while out at sea.
Movement
This word refers to the mechanisms within a watch which actually make it work. It is called a movement as traditionally, the inner workings of a watch would feature a series of perpetually moving cogs and wheels.
The movement can also be called a ‘caliber’ or a ‘mechanism’ and is the part of a watch which tends to spark the most interest among enthusiasts.
Rotor
A rotor is a tiny semi-circular device which is found inside pocket watches and automatic watches. It can be powered by natural movement or by the crown, and once it starts moving it goes on to activate the different cogs and gears inside the watch, allowing it to work.
Tourbillon
A tourbillion watch aims to cancel out the effects of gravity by forcing the watch to rotate on its own axis.
It was invented by the celebrated watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801.
But we think the best way to understand these terms, is to see them in practice. Go to Watches for Sale to see our full catalogue of fine quality watches and test your new found knowledge.
